In Essaouira we had lunch at the Chalet de Plage. This is the oldest french restaurant in the town built of wood on stillts overhanging the beach. It is very upmarket and naturally specialises in seafood. We had a very simple meal, shared salad to start, shared fruit to finish, fish in the middle. No Turbot being available 3 of us opted for a "grand sole". This was possibly a mistake because when they came really one portion would have done for the 3 of us. Ali Baba had calamari which comprised 4 whole large squid but his portion appeared about half of that of a grand sole. Perfectly cooked though. With beers and an oversized tip as we were too replete to sort money it was £20 a head.
The terrace overlooking the sea was full; we had the emergency "reserved" table as we got there late. The tide was coming in and you could watch it sweep round. Everyone was having a good time at similar cost to ourselves often with indulgence in the rather good wine list so I could not understand their attitude to the gnaoui musucians.
These traditional musicians earn their living keeping morocco's musical heritage alive, playing at weddings but mostly "busking". They came down onto the beach under the restaurant ahead of the tide. They were quite a large group with several instruments and they did a little routine of singing, playing and dancing. They then elicited contributions. We made one, taking some time to find a coin to wrap a note round so that it would carry. This somewhat belatedly shamed the next table into giving a few coins but nobody else in the restaurant gave anything. Everyone was having a good time, the musicians added to the ambience, surely they were worth a few dirham.
 |
| View from the terrace of the Chalet de Plage |
 |
| Musicians on the beach; Eassaouira |
 |
| Terrace of the Chalet de Plage |
No comments:
Post a Comment