Saturday 23 July 2011

The Dades Valley




If you continue east from Ouazazate parallel to the Atlas you follow the Dades Valley, first through Skoura and then to el-Kalaa M'Gouna. This area is famous for its roses; a traditional industry founded on the Damascene rose reportedly  brought back by soldiers returning from fighting the crusaders. (Sometimes you just want the myths to be true). If you visit as we did in late May /early June, the harvest season you won't see a single rose on a bush. They are hand-picked in bud at the crack of dawn. But if you go to the market you will see the wholesalers with their scales weighing sacks of the dried buds from the locals and pouring them into huge piles. They will happily sell you a bag, probably at a huge markup but it is a wonderful  way to buy pot pourri. The roadside is littered with shops selling rose products; shampoos, soaps and potions of the most shocking pink hue, they must surely contain a colouring agent banned in the EU, and rosewater and essential for cooking , baking, and re-aromatising your potpourri.
If you continue you come to Boulme el Dades where the Kasbah is a comfortable Hotel but to Beloved 's despair appeared to be an entirely dry town, and then beyond that you come toTinerhir, a centre for local carpets and leading to the entrance to the gorge. Take off you shoes and wade through the cold , cold water such a welcome contrast to the blistering sun, the shadow of the walls providing welcome shade. It isn't the grand canyon but it is truly spectacular.



Sunset from Boulme el Dades Kasbah


Dades Valley


Dades Valley


Dades Gorge


Dades Gorge


Dades Gorge


Dades Gorge


Dades Gorge



Dades Gorge


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