Larache is on the opposite bank of the Oued Loukos to the remains of ancient Lixus. These are largely Roman although the town was first settled by the Phoenicians in about 800BCE before becoming part of the Carthaginian Empire and thence the Roman Empire. The tell is only about one fifth excavated although there is a small dig at the summit now . There is a small amphitheatre, the first in Africa, seating about 800, with a baths next door.
At the top of the hill away from the fish smells below is are a number of high status villas and a small christian church from about 200CE. The mosaics have been removed to museums in Tetouan and Tangier.
At present entry is free but the guardien explained that from the end of this year it will be enclosed with access solely from the new expensive golf resort to be built nearby and a museum complex to be built to get the finds back on site. Clearly conservation has to be paid for, but a Golf Resort???!