We were shown round Tamegroute Kasbah by Tariq the son of the current Caid. They are descendantsof Mali people brought here by the slavers and look more southern than the general morrocan population. We were shown round the ground floor of the Kasbahwhich although ot now has electric lighting remained pitch black in the middle of the day as the corridors are unlit and wth the uneven dirt floor and having to feel the wall quite unsettling. Pity the poor slave who would be locked in these bottom rooms until disposed of by the traders above.
We were told that the Kasbah has running treated water but only for one hour a day. This is because the wells which used to have water at 15m no only have it at 60m. I was not clear whether this was because there is less rain, or, like the south-east UK they have overpopulated the aquifier with the growth of the town. Tariq was in full desert regalia with the turban which can have the end drawn across the face and traditional robes although in his case they were light green and I didn't see a dagger. Usually they are "Toureg" blue. Only men in the tourist trade wear these clothes so if you are approached by one they are either guiding or trying to sell you something but I have noticed that it is only the tallest and most beautiful men that wear them, your day to day nondescript does not, so that a myth is created of a tribe of men who meet every young westerner's romantic dream and more.
I did let this one sell me a definately white metal bracelet but it's elasticated so comfortable and not so bad it leaves your skin green.